Definition
Coastal waters are subject to the continuous pounding of ocean waves – by short wind waves and swells and by long-period tidal actions. These regular processes are exacerbated during the episodic forcing of storm surge and tsunami . The resulting hydrodynamic processes caused by these forces face resistance along its boundary at the seabed giving rise to a layer of reduced flow velocity near the bed. The thickness of this boundary layer depending on the shearing actions of currents and waves is described as a logarithmic or power profile in currents and as a function of bottom orbital motion for waves. The resistance to the shearing fluid motion of currents and waves at the boundary caused by the roughness of seabed is defined in terms of granular characteristics and the irregularity of bed, as well as by their hydrodynamic response. The bed irregularities varying from small ripples to large dunes are distinctly different in current and wave...
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Barua, D.K. (2017). Seabed Roughness of Coastal Waters. In: Finkl, C., Makowski, C. (eds) Encyclopedia of Coastal Science . Encyclopedia of Earth Sciences Series. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-48657-4_360-1
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