Abstract
The fundamental transformations that influenced men’s way of dress in the fourteenth century established decisively the differences between the sexes. At the same time they inaugurated, in the Western history of fashion, modern ways of dressing by adopting short, fitted, and tailored1 elements as new criteria for elegance.The decades before and after 1400 are distinguished by such a diverse vestimentary landscape that it evoked a “Babel of costumes” for the great historian Jules Michelet. The period could equally be defined as “the age of the pourpoint,” since at this time the military garment served as an emblem of the martial function as well as a courtly mode.
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Notes
For a recent point of view, see Stella Mary Newton, Fashion in the Age of the Black Prince (Woodbridge: Boydell Press, 1981); and
Odile Blanc, Parades et Parures. L’invention du corps de mode à la fin du Moyen Age (Paris: Gallimard, 1997)
Anonimo Romano, Cronica, ed. G. Porta (Milan: Adelphi, 1981).
Tileman Ehlen von Wolfhagen, Limburger Chronik, ed. A. Wyss in the Monumenta Germanie Historiae (Scriptores qui vernacula lingua usi sunt) t.IV/ 1 (Hannover, 1883).
Paris BnF, ms Fr. 2813, Les Grandes Chroniques de France, Paris, ca. 1375–1379. See Anne D. Hedeman, The Royal Image. Illustrations of the Grandes Chroniques de France, 1214–1422 (Berkeley-Los Angeles-Oxford: University of California Press, 1991).
See R. Barthes, Le système de la mode (Paris: Le Seuil, 1967).
M. Thomas, L’Age d’or de l’enluminure (Paris: Vilo, 1983) (New York: George Brazilher, 1979). This work reproduces several of the images referred to here See also Charles Sterling, La peinture médiéval à Paris. 1300–1500 (Paris: Bibliothèque des arts, 1987); and the classic
M. Meiss, French Painting in the Time of Jean de Berry, 3 vols. (London: Phaidon Press, 1967–1974)
J. Huizinga, L’automne du Moyen Age (1919; Pans: Payot, 1980), 30.
Reproduced in M. Laclotte and D. Thiébaut, L’Ecole d’Avignon (Pans: Flammarion, 1983), 29.
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© 2002 Désirée G. Koslin and Janet E. Snyder
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Blanc, O. (2002). From Battlefield to Court: The Invention of Fashion in the Fourteenth Century. In: Koslin, D.G., Snyder, J.E. (eds) Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress. The New Middle Ages. Palgrave Macmillan, New York. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-137-08394-4_10
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