Skip to main content

The Dwarskersbos, South Africa local tsunami of August 27, 1969: field survey and simulation as a meteorological event

  • Original Paper
  • Chapter
  • First Online:
Meteorological Tsunamis: The U.S. East Coast and Other Coastal Regions

Abstract

We investigate the hitherto unexplained wave which inundated the village of Dwarskersbos, South Africa, in the early hours of August 27, 1969, in the absence of any seismic disturbance or major meteorological storm. A field survey, based on the interview of nine elderly witnesses still residing in the community, documented maximum run-up of 2.9 m, concentrated on an extremely short segment of coastline, less than 2 km in length. These characteristics are incompatible with generation by a seismic source (which, at any rate, should have been felt by the population). A landslide source, located at the only canyon featuring a steep enough ocean floor, is also ruled out since a numerical simulation fails to reproduce the concentration of the wave at Dwarskersbos. By contrast, the wave can be explained as a “meteo-tsunami” resulting from resonance between a meteorological squall propagating at 18 m/s in the azimuth \(\hbox {N101}^{\circ }\hbox {E}\) and a gravity wave propagating in the shallow waters off the eastern shore of St. Helena Bay. This is confirmed by numerical simulation under the formalism of Proudman (Dynamical oceanography. Methuen, London, 1953), which provides a satisfactory model of the distribution of run-up along the beach.

This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.

Access this chapter

Chapter
USD 29.95
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
eBook
USD 84.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Available as PDF
  • Read on any device
  • Instant download
  • Own it forever
Softcover Book
USD 109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Compact, lightweight edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info
Hardcover Book
USD 109.99
Price excludes VAT (USA)
  • Durable hardcover edition
  • Dispatched in 3 to 5 business days
  • Free shipping worldwide - see info

Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout

Purchases are for personal use only

Institutional subscriptions

Preview

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.

References

  • Ben-Avraham Z, Smith G, Reshef M, Jungslage E (2002) Gas hydrate and mud volcanoes on the southwest African continental margin off South Africa. Geology 30:927–930

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Chrystal G (1908) An investigation of the seiches of Loch Earn by the Scottish lake survey, part V: mathematical appendix on the effect of pressure disturbances upon the seiches in a symmetric parabolic lake. Trans R Soc Edinb 46:499–517

    Google Scholar 

  • Churchill DD, Houston SH, Bond NA (1995) The Daytona Beach wave of 3–4 July 1992: a shallow water gravity wave forced by a propagating squall line. Bull Am Meteorol Soc 76:21–32

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Defant A (1960) Physical oceanography, vol 2. Pergamon, Oxford, p 234

    Google Scholar 

  • Donn WL (1959) The Great Lakes storm surge of May 5, 1952. J Geophys Res 64:191–198

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ewing M, Press F, Donn WL (1954) An explanation of the Lake Michigan wave of 26 June 1954. Science 120:684–686

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Geller RJ (1976) Scaling relations for earthquake source parameters and magnitudes. Bull Seismol Soc Am 66:1501–1523

    Google Scholar 

  • Godunov SK (1959) Finite difference methods for numerical computations of discontinuous solutions of the equations of fluid dynamics. Mat Sb 47:271–295

    Google Scholar 

  • Hartnady CJH, Brundrit G, Hunter I, Luger I, Saunders I, Wonnacott R (2009) The Cape West Coast tsunami of 20–21 August 2008. Proceedings of Gen. Assemb. Intl. Assoc. Seism. Phys. Earth Inter., Cape Town [abstract]

    Google Scholar 

  • Hibiya T, Kajiura K (1982) Origin of “Abiki” phenomenon (kind of seiches) in Nagasaki Bay. J Oceanogr Soc Jpn 38:172–182

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Keyser AW (1974) Some macroscopic observations in the meizoseismal area of the Boland earthquake of 29th September 1969. Counc Geosci Seismol Ser 4:18–25

    Google Scholar 

  • Kharif C, Pelinovsky E, Slunyaev A (2009) Rogue waves in the ocean. Springer, Heidelberg, 216 pp

    Google Scholar 

  • Monserrat S, Ibberson A, Thorpe AJ (1991) Atmospheric gravity waves and the “rissaga” phenomenon. Q J R Meteorol Soc 117:553–570

    Google Scholar 

  • Monserrat S, Vilibić I, Rabinovich AB (2006) Meteotsunamis: atmospherically induced destructive ocean waves in the tsunami frequency band. Nat Haz Earth Syst Sci 6:1035–1051

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Nomitsu T (1935) A theory of tsunamis and seiches produced by wind and barometric gradient. Mem Coll Sci Imp Univ Kyoto Ser A 18:201–214

    Google Scholar 

  • Okal EA, Synolakis CE (2004) Source discriminants for near-field tsunamis. Geophys J Int 158:899–912

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Okal EA, Synolakis CE, Fryer GJ, Heinrich P, Borrero JC, Ruscher C, Arcas D, Guille G, Rousseau D (2002) A field survey of the 1946 Aleutian tsunami in the far field. Seismol Res Lett 73:490–503

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Okal EA, Plafker G, Synolakis CE, Borrero JC (2003) Near-field survey of the 1946 Aleutian tsunami on Unimak and Sanak Islands. Bull Seismol Soc Am 93:1226–1234

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Okal EA, Synolakis CE, Uslu B, Kalligeris N, Voukouvalas E (2009) The 1956 earthquake and tsunami in Amorgos, Greece. Geophys J Int 178:1533–1554

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Pasquet S, Vilibić I, Šepić J (2013) A survey of strong high-frequency sea level oscillations along the U.S. East Coast between 2006 and 2011. Nat Hazards Earth Syst Sci 13:473–482

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Platzman GW (1958) A numerical computation of the surge of 26 June 1954 on Lake Michigan. Tech. Rept. Nr. 1, U.S. Weather Bureau, Univ. Chicago, 46 pp

    Google Scholar 

  • Proudman J (1929) The effect on the sea of changes in atmospheric pressure. Mon Not R Astr Soc Geophys Supp 2:197–209

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Proudman J (1953) Dynamical oceanography. Methuen, London, 409 pp

    Google Scholar 

  • Rabinovich AB (2009) Seiches and harbor oscillations. In: Kim YC (ed) Handbook of coastal and ocean engineering. World Scientific Publishing, Singapore, pp 193–244

    Chapter  Google Scholar 

  • Rabinovich AB, Monserrat S (1996) Meteorological tsunamis near the Balearic and Kuril Islands: descriptive and statistical analysis. Nat Hazards 13:55–90

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Rabinovich AB, Monserrat S (1998) Generation of meteorological tsunamis (large amplitude seiches) near the Balearic and Kuril Islands. Nat Hazards 18:27–55

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Ranguelov B, Tinti S, Pagnoni G, Tonini R, Zaniboni F, Armigliato A (2008) The non-seismic tsunami observed in the Bulgarian Black Sea on 7 May 2007: was it due to a submarine landslide? Geophys Res Lett 35(18):L18613, 5 pp

    Google Scholar 

  • Šepić J, Vilibić I, Belušić D (2009) The source of the 2007 Ist meteo-tsunami (Adriatic Sea). J Geophys Res 114(C3):C03016, 14 pp

    Google Scholar 

  • Synolakis CE (2003) Tsunami and seiche. In: Chen W-F, Scawthron C (eds) Earthquake engineering handbook. CRC Press, Boca Raton, pp 9_1–9_90

    Google Scholar 

  • Synolakis CE, Okal EA (2005) 1992–2002: perspective on a decade of post-tsunami surveys. In: Satake K (eds) Tsunamis: case studies and recent developments. Adv. Natur. Technol. Hazards, vol 23, pp 1–30

    Google Scholar 

  • Synolakis CE, Bardet J-P, Borrero JC, Davies HL, Okal EA, Silver EA, Sweet S, Tappin DR (2002a) The slump origin of the 1998 Papua New Guinea tsunami. Proc R Soc (Lond) Ser A 458:763–789

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Synolakis CE, Yalçıner AC, Borrero JC, Plafker GL (2002b) Modeling of the November 3, 1994 Skagway, Alaska tsunami. In: Wallendorf L, Ewing L (eds) Solutions to coastal disasters, Edited by Amer. Soc. Civil Eng., pp 915–927

    Google Scholar 

  • Tanaka K (2010) Atmospheric pressure-wave bands around a cold front resulted in a meteo-tsunami in the East China Sea in February 2009. Nat Hazards Earth Syst Sci 10:2599–2610

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Tappin DR, Sibley A, Horsburgh K, Daubord C, Cox D, Long D (2012) The English Channel tsunami of 27 June 2011—a probable meteorological source. Eos Trans Am Geophys Un 93(53):NH21D-05 [abstract]

    Google Scholar 

  • Thieke RJ, Dean Thieke RJ, Dean RG, Garcia AW (1993) The Daytona Beach “large wave” event of 3 July 1992. In: Proceedings of 2nd international symposium ocean wave measurement and analysis, Amer. Soc. Civil Eng., New Orleans, pp 45–60

    Google Scholar 

  • Titov VV, Synolakis CE (1998) Numerical modeling of tidal wave runup. J Wtrwy Port Coast Eng B124:157–171

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Vilibić I, Horvath K, Strelec Mahović N, Monserrat S, Marcos M, Amores A, Fine I (2014) Atmospheric processes responsible for generation of the 2008 Boothbay meteo-tsunami. Nat Hazards (in press)

    Google Scholar 

  • Vilibić I, Šepić J, Ranguelov B, Mahović NS, Tinti S (2010) Possible atmospheric origin of the 7 May 2007 western Black Sea shelf tsunami event. J Geophys Res 115(C7):C07006 12 pp

    Article  Google Scholar 

  • Wijeratne S, Pattariatchi C (2013) Meteo-tsunamis along the west Australian coastline. In: Proceedings of joint Assemb. Intl. Assoc. Seismol. Phys. Inter. Earth, Göteborg, 22–26 Jul. 2013, SP1S4.06 [abstract]

    Google Scholar 

  • Wu C, Bechle A, Schwab DJ, Anderson EJ, Roebber PJ (2012) Meteo-tsunamis in Lake Michigan. Eos Trans Am Geophys Un 93(53):NH21D-04 [abstract]

    Google Scholar 

Download references

Acknowledgments

We thank Wilhelm van Zyl of the Marine Geoscience Unit, Council of Geoscience, for a digitized map of the bathymetry of St. Helena Bay, and Mr. Theuns Smit of Dwarskersbos for access to a 1967 land-surveyor’s map of the future town layout. Mr. Nikos Kalligeris helped in the initial aspects of the landslide simulation. Discussions are also acknowledged with Dr. Nasr-Eddine Taibi during the RASMER meeting in Zeralda, Algeria, in June 2013. Constructive comments on the original version of the paper by Editor Alexander Rabinovich and two anonymous reviewers are gratefully acknowledged. We are grateful to Emily Wolin for help with the final production of the manuscript, especially Fig. 3.

Author information

Authors and Affiliations

Authors

Corresponding author

Correspondence to Emile A. Okal .

Editor information

Editors and Affiliations

Rights and permissions

Reprints and permissions

Copyright information

© 2014 Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht

About this chapter

Cite this chapter

Okal, E.A., Visser, J.N.J., de Beer, C.H. (2014). The Dwarskersbos, South Africa local tsunami of August 27, 1969: field survey and simulation as a meteorological event. In: Vilibić, I., Monserrat, S., Rabinovich, A.B. (eds) Meteorological Tsunamis: The U.S. East Coast and Other Coastal Regions. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-12712-5_14

Download citation

Publish with us

Policies and ethics