Abstract
This chapter investigates the role played by Cabo Verdean migrants—residents of the outskirts of Lisbon—in the dissemination and preservation of Cabo Verdean food practices within migrant communities living in Portugal and in other European countries of the Cabo Verdean diaspora, by cooking, sending and transporting food parcels or inkumenda di téra. Through the gathering of their narratives, a cartographye merges of the informal circulation of food products between Portugal and Cabo Verde, and Portugal and other places of the diaspora. The transit of these parcels appears to shorten distances between territories, connecting families and friends that are geographically apart, contributing to maintenance of practices and associated memories.
References
Abarca, Meredith E. 2004. Authentic or Not, It’s Original. Food and Foodways: Explorations in the History and Culture 12 (1): 1–25. doi:10.1080/07409710490467589.
Abranches, Maria. 2013. When People Stay and Things Make their Way: Airports, Mobilities and Materialities of a Transnational Landscape. Mobilities 8 (4): 506–527. doi:10.1080/17450101.2012.705510.
———. 2014. Remitting Wealth, Reciprocating Health? The ‘Travel’ of the Land from Guinea-Bissau to Portugal. American Ethnologist 41 (2): 261–275. doi:10.1111/amet.12074.
Alexeyeff, Kalissa. 2004. Love Food: Exchange and Sustenance in Cook Islands Diaspora. The Australian Journal of Anthropology 15 (1): 68–79. doi:10.1111/j.1835-9310.2004.tb00366.x.
Anderson, Benedict. 1983. Imagined Communities: Reflections on the Origin and Spread of Nationalism. London: Verso.
Appadurai, Arjun. 1996. Modernity at Large: Cultural Dimensions of Globalization. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press.
Ascher, François. 2005. Le Mangeur Hypermoderne: Une Figure de l’Individu Éclectique. Paris: Éditions Odile Jacob.
Baldassar, Loretta. 2008. Debating Culture across Distance: Transnational Families and the Obligation to Care. In The Family in Question: Immigrant and Ethnic Minorities in Multicultural Europe, ed. Ralph Grillo, 269–291. Amsterdam: Amsterdam University Press.
Basu, Paul, and Simon Coleman. 2008. Introduction: Migrant Worlds, Material Cultures. Mobilities 3 (3): 313–330. doi:10.1080/17450100802376753.
Batalha, Luís. 2004. The Cape Verdean Diaspora in Portugal: Colonial Subjects in a Postcolonial World. New York: Lexington Books.
Batalha, Luís, and Jørgen Carling. 2008. Transnational Archipelago. Perspectives on Cape Verdean Migration and Diaspora. Amsterdam: Amsterdam University Press.
Ben-Ze’ev, Efrat. 2004. The Politics of Taste and Smell: Palestinian Rites of Return. In The Politics of Food, ed. Marianne Elizabeth Lien and Brigitte Nerlich, 141–160. Oxford: Berg.
Borges, Sónia. 2014. Na Pó di Spera: Percursos nos Bairros da Estrada Militar, de Santa Filomena e da Encosta Nascente. Lisbon: Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian and Principia Editora.
Boudan, Christian. 2004. Géopolitique du Gout: La Guerre Culinaire. Paris: PUF.
Bourdieu, Pierre. 1979. La Distinction: Critique Sociale du Jugement. Paris: Éditions Minuit.
Bradby, Hannah. 1997. Health, Eating and Heart Attacks: Glaswegian Punjabi Women’s Thinking about Everyday Food. In Food, Health and Identity, ed. Pat Caplan, 213–232. London: Routledge.
Brightwell, Maria das Graças. 2012. On the Move and in the Making: Brazilian Culinary Cultures in London. Canadian Journal of Latin American and Caribbean Studies 37 (74): 51–80. doi:10.1080/08263663.2012.11006003.
Burrell, Kathy. 2008. Managing, Learning and Sending: The Material Lives and Journeys of Polish Women in Britain. Journal of Material Culture 13 (1): 63–83. doi:10.1177/1359183507086219.
Cabannes, Yves, and Isabel Raposo. 2013. Peri-Urban Agriculture, Social Inclusion of Migrant Population and Right to the City: Practices in Lisbon and London. City: Analysis of Urban Trends, Culture, Theory, Policy, Action 17 (2): 235–250. doi:10.1080/13604813.2013.765652.
Calvo, Manuel. 1982. Migration et Alimentation. Social Science Information 21 (3): 386–446. doi:10.1177/053901882021003003.
Caplan, Pat. 1997. Approaches to the Study of Food, Health and Identity. In Food, Health and Identity, ed. Pat Caplan, 1–31. London: Routledge.
Carter, Katherine, and Judy Aulette. 2009. Cape Verdean Women and Globalization: The Politics of Gender, Culture, and Resistance. New York: Palgrave Macmillan.
Cidra, Rui. 2008. Produzindo a Música de Cabo Verde na Diáspora: Redes Transnacionais, World Music e Múltiplas Formações Crioulas. In Comunidade(s) Cabo-Verdiana(s): As Múltiplas Faces da Imigração Cabo-Verdiana, ed. Pedro Góis, 105–126. Lisbon: ACIDI.
Cliggett, Lisa. 2005. Remitting the Gift: Zambian Mobility and Anthropological Insights for Migration Studies. Population, Space and Place 11: 35–48. doi:10.1002/psp.355.
Connerton, Paul. 1989. How Societies Remember. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Contreras, Jesús, and Mabel Gracia. 2005. Alimentación y Cultura: Perspectivas Antropológicas. Barcelona: Ariel.
Counihan, Carole. 2004. Around the Tuscan Table: Food, Family and Gender in Twentieth Century Florence. New York: Routledge.
Cusack, Igor. 2000. African Cuisines: Recipes for Nation-Building? Jounal of African Cultural Studies 13 (2): 207–225. doi:10.1080/713674313.
Fernandes, Margarida. 2004. Hora di Bai: Os Cabo-Verdianos e a Morte. Uma Abordagem Antropológica Através da Literatura de Ficcção. Veja: Lisbon.
Fischler, Claude. 1988. Food, Self and Identity. Social Science Information 27 (2): 275–292. doi:10.1177/053901888027002005.
———. 1990. L’Homnivore. Paris: Odile Jacob.
Góis, Pedro. 2006. Emigração Cabo-Verdiana para (e na) Europa e a sua Inserção em Mercados de Trabalho: Lisboa, Milão, Roterdão. Lisbon: ACIME.
———. 2008. Entre Janus e Hydra de Lerna: As Múltiplas Faces dos Cabo-Verdianos em Portugal . In Comunidade(s) Cabo-Verdiana(s): As Múltiplas Faces da Imigração Cabo-Verdiana, ed. Pedro Góis, 9–24. Lisbon: ACIDI.
Góis, Pedro, and José Marques. 2008. Práticas Transnacionais dos Imigrantes Cabo-Verdianos em Portugal . In Comunidade(s) Cabo-Verdiana(s): As Múltiplas Faces da Imigração Cabo-Verdiana, ed. Pedro Góis, 88–104. Lisbon: ACIDI.
Gracia, Mabel. 1996. Paradojas de la Alimentación Contemporánea. Barcelona: Icaria.
Grassi, Marzia. 2003. Rabidantes: Comércio Espontâneo Transnacional em Cabo Verde. Lisbon: Imprensa de Ciências Sociais.
———. 2007. Cabo Verde pelo Mundo: O Género na Diáspora Cabo-Verdiana. In Género e Migrações Cabo-Verdianas, ed. Marzia Grassi and Iolanda Évora, 24–61. Lisbon: Imprensa de Ciências Sociais.
Halbwachs, Maurice. 1997. La Mémoire Collective. Paris: Éditions Albin Michel.
Hart, Keith. 1973. Informal Income Opportunities and Urban Employment in Ghana. The Journal of Modern African Studies 11 (1): 61–89. doi:10.1017/S0022278X00008089.
Holtzman, Jon. 2006. Food and Memory. Annual Review of Anthropology 35: 361–378. doi:10.1146/annurev.anthro.35.081705.123220.
Law, Lisa. 2001. Home Cooking: Filipino Women and Geographies of the Senses in Hong Kong. Ecumene 8 (3): 264–283. doi:10.1177/096746080100800302.
Locher, Julie, William C. Yoels, Donna Maurer, and Jillian van Ells. 2005. Comfort Foods: An Exploratory Journey into the Social and Emotional Significance of Food. Food and Foodways: Explorations in the History and Culture of Human Nourishment 13 (4): 273–297. doi:10.1080/07409710500334509.
Lupton, Deborah. 1994. Food, Memory and Meaning: The Symbolic and Social Nature of Food Events. The Sociological Review 42 (4): 665–685. doi:10.1111/j.1467-954X.1994.tb00105.x.
MacClancy, Jeremy. 2004. Food, Identity, Identification. In Researching Food Habits: Methods and Problems, ed. Helen Macbeth and Jeremy MacClancy, 63–73. New York: Berghahn.
Mannur, Anita. 2007. Culinary Nostalgia: Authenticity, Nacionalism and Diaspora. Melus 32 (4): 11–31. doi:10.1093/melus/32.4.11.
Marcus, George. 1995. Ethnography in/of the World-System: The Emergence of Multi-Sited Ethnography. Annual Review of Anthropology 24: 95–117. doi:10.1146/annurev.an.24.100195.000523.
Marte, Lidia. 2007. Foodmaps: Tracing Boundaries of ‘Home’ Through Food Relations. Food and Foodways 15 (3): 261–289. doi:10.1080/07409710701620243.
Mata-Codesal, Diana. 2010. Eating Abroad, Remembering (At) Home. Three Foods Cabos of Ecuadorian Migration in New York, London and Santander. Anthropology of Food [Online], 7. http://aof.revues.org/6642
———. 2014. Me Hace Sentir como si Estuviera en Ecuador. Alimentación y Sensaciones de Hogar en los Inicios de la Migración Ecuatoriana en Santander. In Alimentación y Migraciones en Iberoamérica, ed. F. Xavier Medina, 137–153. Barcelona: UOC.
Godelier, Maurice. 1999. The Enigma of the Gift. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
Mauss, Marcel. 2002. The Gift: The Form and Reason for Exchange in Archaic Societies. London: Routledge.
Medina, F. Xavier. 2001. Alimentation et Identité Chez les Immigrants Basques en Catalogne. Anthropology of Food. Accessed June 3, 2011. http://aof.revues.org/document1541.html
———. 2002. Alimentación, Etnicidad y Migración. Ser Vasco y Comer Vasco en Cataluña. In Somos lo que Comemos. Estudios de Alimentación y Cultura en España, ed. Mabel Gracia, 123–147. Barcelona: Ariel.
Meyer, Miriam. 2001. A Bite off Mama’s Plate: Mother’s and Daughters’ Connections Through Food. New York: Bergin and Garvey.
Miller, Daniel. 1987. Material Culture and Mass Consumption. Oxford: Basil Blackwell.
———. 2001. Behind Closed Doors. In Home Possessions: Meterial Culture Behind Closed Doors, ed. Daniel Miller, 1–19. Oxford: Berg.
Mintz, Sidney. 2001. Comida e Antropologia: Uma Breve Revisão. Revista Brasileira de Ciências Sociais 16 (47): 31–41. doi:10.1590/s0102-69092001000300002.
Murcott, Anne. 1996. Food as an Expression of a National Identity. In The Future of the Nation State, ed. Sverker Gustavsson and Leif Lewin, 21–38. London: Routlegde.
———. 1997. Family Meals – A Thing of the Past? In Food, Health and Identity, ed. Pat Caplan, 32–49. London: Routledge.
Parkin, David. 1999. Mementoes as Transitional Objects in Human Displacement. Journal of Material Culture 4 (3): 303–320. doi:10.1177/135918359900400304.
Petridou, Elia. 2001. The Taste of Home. In Home Possessions: Material Culture Behind Closed Doors, ed. Daniel Miller, 87–104. Oxford: Berg.
Phillips, Lynne. 2006. Food and Globalization. Annual Review of Anthropology 35: 37–57. doi:10.1146/annurev.anthro.35.081705.123214.
Pickering, Michael, and Emily Keightley. 2006. The Modalities of Nostalgia. Current Sociology 54 (6): 919–941. doi:10.1177/0011392106068458.
Piot, Charles. 1991. Of Persons and Things: Some Reflections on African Spheres of Exchange. Man 26 (3): 405–424. doi:10.2307/2803875.
Portes, Alejandro. 1995. Economic Sociology and the Sociology of Immigration: A Conceptual Overview. In The Economic Sociology of Immigration, ed. Alejandro Portes, 1–41. New York: Sage.
———. 2003. Convergências Teóricas e Dados Empíricos no Estudo do Transnacionalismo Migrante. Revista Crítica de Ciências Sociais 69 (1): 73–93. doi:10.4000/rccs.1339.
———. 2006. Estudos sobre as Migrações Contemporâneas: Transnacionalismo, Empreendorismo e a Segunda Geração. Lisbon: Fim do Século.
Poulain, Jean-Pierre. 2002. Sociologies de l’Alimentation. Paris: PUF.
SEF/GEPF. 2016. Relatório de Imigração, Fronteiras e Asilo 2015. Oeiras: Serviço de Estrangeiros e Fronteiras.
Sutton, David. 2001. Remembrance of Repasts: An Anthropology of Food and Memory. London: Berg.
Sutton, David, and Michael Hernandez. 2007. Voices in the Kitchen: Cooking Tools as Inalienable Possessions. Oral History 35 (2): 67–76.
Thiesse, Anne-Marie. 1999. La Creation des Identités Nationales: Europe XVIIIe-XXe Siècle. Paris: Ed. du Seuil.
Vázquez-Medina, José A. 2012. Nostalgia Culinaria: Apuntes sobre los Aspectos Socioculturales de la Preparación de Alimentos en Migrantes Mexicanos Retornados. El Caso Potosino. Revista Alter–Enfoques Críticos 3(6):105–121. Accessed June 22, 2015. http://static1.squarespace.com/static/552c00efe4b0cdec4ea42d9f/t/55785d82e4b02cd823e1f7e5/1433951618567/ALTER6+-+09.pdf
Vertovec, Steven. 2009. Transnationalism. New York: Routledge.
Wilk, Rick. 2006. Home Cooking in the Global Village: Caribbean Food from Buccaneers to Ecotourists. London: Berg.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Editor information
Editors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 2018 The Author(s)
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
de Oliveira, T.S. (2018). Inkumenda di téra: The Informal Circulation of Cabo Verdean Food Products. In: Mata-Codesal, D., Abranches, M. (eds) Food Parcels in International Migration. Anthropology, Change, and Development. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-40373-1_8
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-40373-1_8
Published:
Publisher Name: Palgrave Macmillan, Cham
Print ISBN: 978-3-319-40372-4
Online ISBN: 978-3-319-40373-1
eBook Packages: Political Science and International StudiesPolitical Science and International Studies (R0)