Abstract
The most apparent and usually the most important waves in the spectrum of waves at sea (see Figure 5.2) are those generated by the wind. Wind-generated waves are much more complex than the simple monochromatic waves considered to this point. We must briefly look into how these waves are generated by the wind and some of the important characteristics that result. It is important to have a means to quantify wind-generated waves for use in various engineering analyses. It is also important to be able to predict these waves for a given wind condition both wave hindcasts for historic wind conditions and wave forecasts for predicted impending wind conditions. Finally, we also need to look at procedures for extreme wave analysis, i.e., to predict those extreme wind-generated wave conditions that will be used as the limit for engineering design.
This is a preview of subscription content, log in via an institution to check access.
Access this chapter
Tax calculation will be finalised at checkout
Purchases are for personal use only
Preview
Unable to display preview. Download preview PDF.
References
American National Standards Institute (1972), “American National Standard Building Code Requirements for Minimum Design Loads in Buildings and Other Structures,” Publication A58.1, New York.
Bouws, E., Gunther, H., Rosenthal, W., and Vincent, C.L. (1985), “Similarity of the Wind Wave Spectrum in Finite Depth Water, Part I—Spectral Form,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 90, pp. 975–986.
Bretschneider, C.L. (1952), “Revised Wave Forecasting Relationship,” in Proceedings, 2nd Conference on Coastal Engineering, Council on Wave Research, University of California, Berkeley, pp. 1–5.
Bretschneider, C.L. (1957), “Hurricane Design Wave Practices,” Journal, Waterways and Harbors Division, American Society of Civil Engineers, May, pp. 1–33.
Bretschneider, C.L. (1958), “Revisions in Wave Forecasting: Deep and Shallow Water,” in Proceedings, 6th Conference on Coastal Engineering, Council on Wave Research, University of California, Berkeley, pp. 1–18.
Bretschneider, C.L. (1959), “Wave Variability and Wave Spectra for Wind-Generated Gravity Waves,” Technical Memorandum 118, U.S. Army Beach Erosion Board, Washington, DC.
Chakrabarti, S.K. and Cooley, R.P. (1971), “Statistical Distribution of Periods and Heights of Ocean Waves,” Journal of Geophysical Research, pp. 1361–1368.
Collins, J.I. (1967), “Wave Statistics from Hurricane Dora,” Journal, Waterways and Harbors Division, American Society of Civil Engineers, May, pp. 59–77.
Collins, J.I. (1970), “Probabilities of Breaking Wave Characteristics,” in Proceedings, 12th Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, Washington, DC, pp. 399–412.
Earle, M.D. (1975), “Extreme Wave Conditions During Hurricane Camille,” Journal of Geophysical Research, pp. 377–379.
Goda, Y. (1974), “Estimation of Wave Statistics from Spectral Information,” in Proceedings, Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis Conference, American Society of Civil Engineers, New Orleans, pp. 320–337.
Goda, Y. (1975), “Irregular Wave Deformation in the Surf Zone,” Coastal Engineering in Japan, Vol. 18, pp. 13–26.
Goda Y. (1985), Random Seas and the Design of Maritime Structures, University of Tokyo Press, Tokyo.
Goda, Y. and Suzuki, Y. (1975), “Computation of Refraction and Diffraction of Sea Waves with Mitsuyasu’s Directional Spectrum,” Technical Note, Port and Harbor Research Institute, Japan.
Goodnight, R.C. and Russell, T.L. (1963), “Investigation of the Statistics of Wave Heights,” Journal, Waterways and Harbors Division, American Society of Civil Engineers, May, pp. 29–54.
Hasselmann, K., Barnett, T.P., Bouws, E., Carlson, H., Cartwright, D.E., Enke, K., Ewing, J.A., Gienapp, H., Hasselmann, D.E., Kruseman, P., Meerburg, A., Muller, P., Olbers, D.J., Richter, K., Sell, W., and Walden, H. (1973), “Measurement of Wind-Wave Growth and Swell Decay During the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP),” Report, German Hydrographic Institute, Hamburg.
Hubertz, J.M., Brooks, R.M., Brandom, W.A., and Tracey, B.A. (1993), “Wave Hindcast Information for the US Atlantic Coast,” WIS Report 30, U.S. Army Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS.
Hughes, S.A. (1984), “The TMA Shallow-Water Spectrum Description and Applications,” Technical Report CERC 84–7, U.S. Army Waterways Experiment Station, Vicksburg, MS.
Hughes, S.A. and Borgman, L.E. (1987), “Beta-Rayleigh Distribution for Shallow Water Wave Heights,” in Proceedings, Coastal Hydrodynamics 87 Conference, American Society of Civil Engineers, Newark, DE, pp. 17–31.
Ibrageemov, A.M. (1973), “Investigation of the Distribution Functions of Wave Parameters During Their Transformation,” Oceanology, pp. 584–589.
Isaacson, M. and MacKenzie, N.G. 1981), “Long-term Distributions of Ocean Waves,” Journal, Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering Division, American Society of Civil Engineers, May, pp. 93–109.
Komen, G.J., Cavaleri, L., Donelan, M., Hasselmann, K., Hasselmann, S., and Janssen, P.A.E.M. (1994), The Dynamics and Modeling of Ocean Waves, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.
Kuo, C.T. and Kuo, S.T. (1974), “Effect of Wave Breaking on Statistical Distribution of Wave Heights,” in Proceedings, Civil Engineering in the Oceans III, American Society of Civil Engineers, San Francisco, pp. 1211–1231.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S. (1952), “On the Statistical Distribution of the Heights of Sea Waves,” Journal of Marine Research, Vol. 11, pp. 246–266.
McClenan, C.M. and Harris, D.L. (1975), “The Use of Aerial Photography in the Study of Wave Characteristics in the Coastal Zone,” Technical Memorandum 48, U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center, Ft. Belvoir, VA.
Miles, J.W. (1957), “On the Generation of Surface Waves by Shear Flows,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 3, pp. 185–204.
Mitsuyasu, H., Tsai, F., Subara, T., Mizuno, S., Ohkusu, M., Honda, T., and Rikiishi, K. (1975), “Observation of the Directional Spectrum of Ocean Waves Using a Cloverleaf Buoy,” Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 5, pp. 750–760.
Mitsuyasu, H., Tsai, F., Subara, T., Mizuno, S., Ohkusu, M., Honda, T., and Rikiishi, K. (1980), “Observation of the Power Spectrum of Ocean Waves Using a Cloverleaf Buoy,” Journal of Physical Oceanography, Vol. 10, pp. 286–296.
Ochi, M.K. (1982), “Stochastic Analysis and Probabilistic Prediction of Random Seas,” Advances in Hydroscience, Vol. 13, pp. 218–375.
Phillips, O.M. (1957), “On the Generation of Waves by Turbulent Winds,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 2, pp. 417–445.
Phillips, O.M. (1960), “On the Dynamics of Unsteady Gravity Waves of Finite Amplitude, 1. The Elementary Interactions,” Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 9, pp. 193–217.
Pierson, W.J. (1954), “An Interpretation of the Observable Properties of Sea Waves in Terms of the Energy Spectrum of the Gaussian Record,” Transactions of the American Geophysical Union, Vol. 35, pp. 747–757.
Pierson, W.J. and Moskowitz, L. (1964), “A Proposed Spectral Form for Fully Developed Wind Seas Based on the Similarity Theory of S.A. Kitaigorodskii,” Journal of Geophysical Research, Vol. 69, pp. 5181–5190.
Rye, H. (1977), “The Stability of Some Currently Used Wave Parameters,” Coastal Engineering, Vol. 1, March, pp. 17–30.
St. Dennis, M. and Pierson, W.J. (1953), “On the Motions of Ships in Confused Seas,” Transactions, Society of Naval Architects and Marine Engineers, Vol. 61, pp. 280–357.
Sorensen, R.M. (1993), Basic Wave Mechanics for Coastal and Ocean Engineers, John Wiley, NY.
Sverdrup, H.U. and Munk, W.H. (1947), “Wind, Sea and Swell: Theory of Relations for Forecasting,” Publication 601, U.S. Navy Hydrographic Office, Washington, DC.
The SWAMP Group, (1985), Ocean Wave Modeling, Plenum Press, New York.
Thom, H.C.S. (1960), “Distributions of Extreme Winds in the United States,” Journal, Structures Division, American Society of Civil Engineers, April, pp. 11–24.
Thompson, E.F. and Vincent, C.L. (1985), “Significant Wave Height for Shallow Water Design,” Journal, Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering Division, American Society of Civil Engineers, September, pp. 828–842.
U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (1977), Shore Protection Manual, 3rd Edition, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC.
U.S. Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (1984), Shore Protection Manual, 4th Edition, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC.
Wilson, B.W., Chakrabarti, S.K., and Snider, R.H. (1974), “Spectrum Analysis of Ocean Wave Records,” in Proceedings, Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis, American Society of Civil Engineers, New Orleans, pp. 87–106.
Young, I.R. (1988), “Parametric Hurricane Wave Prediction Model,” Journal, Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering Division, American Society of Civil Engineers, September, pp. 637–652.
Author information
Authors and Affiliations
Rights and permissions
Copyright information
© 1997 Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht
About this chapter
Cite this chapter
Sorensen, R.M. (1997). Wind-Generated Waves. In: Basic Coastal Engineering. Springer, Boston, MA. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4757-2665-7_6
Download citation
DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4757-2665-7_6
Publisher Name: Springer, Boston, MA
Print ISBN: 978-1-4757-2667-1
Online ISBN: 978-1-4757-2665-7
eBook Packages: Springer Book Archive