Tuna Renaissance

Abstract

For centuries this was the last part of Europe seen by seafarers as they set sail in their galleons and frigates from Spain to the New World in search of wealth. If they were lucky and survived the journey and the stay in America, it was also the first European city reached on the way back, before their ships set off upstream along the great Guadalquivir river towards Seville to deliver the captured gold and silver. Sanlúcar de Barrameda is situated on the eastern bank at the mouth of the broad river which runs into the Atlantic Ocean. The streets of the old city have a salty sea smell with hints of the special Manzanilla sherry made in countless bodegas. Sanlúcar’s extensive beach is famous for horse races and for its restaurants next to the port with their shellfish, lobster and renowned gambas from Sanlúcar. On the other side of the river lies the vast dune and marsh area of Coto Doñana, a nature reserve known for lynx and migratory birds which forage here on their way from Europe to North Africa and back (Fig. 6.1).

Ir a por atún y a ver al Duque.

(Go after the tuna and to see the Duke) Old Spanish proverb