Characteristics of the Design and Production Process for Italian- and Japanese-Made Tailored Jackets in the Global Market

Abstract

We studied differences in the production processes of high-end garments manufactured in Japan and Italy and intended for sale on the global market. We analyzed the roles of modélistes from these countries to understand how differences in their work styles influenced the characteristics of the final products. A jacket designed by a Japanese designer was produced in both Japan and Italy. We compared the components of each jacket before and after assembly. In Japanese garment factories, work can only progress after previous steps have been inspected. Conversely, Italian workers only inspect the final product. There was also a difference in the use of keeping tape and interlining. It is common for Italian modélistes to select the sub-material, depending on the design. However, cost and production volume is more important in Japan. Although advanced production technology exists in Japan, there is a “lost art” that has disappeared in the trial and error conducted in the pursuit of efficient production: an expert’s control of the production process, which takes more time. However, this “lost art” is still used in Italy. This should be considered when analyzing the globalization of fashion in Tokyo.