Abstract
In recent years many previously baffling phenomena to do with the action of waves on sloping beaches have been sufficiently understood physically that they are now amenable to mathematical analysis. This in turn has suggested new problems, which it will be the purpose of this paper to point out.
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Longuet-Higgins, M.S. (1973). The mechanics of the surf zone. In: Becker, E., Mikhailov, G.K. (eds) Theoretical and Applied Mechanics. IUTAM Symposia. Springer, Berlin, Heidelberg. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-65590-6_14
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DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-65590-6_14
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